Further Afield
ENJOYING RUHENGERI (now MUSANZE)
Ruhengeri is best known as the base for tracking the mountain gorillas in the Volcanoes National Park. Certain times of the year, you'll come across many other fellow travellers all in Ruhengeri as this is probably the busiest tourist centre in Rwanda at the moment but an unassuming town with a very relaxed atmosphere.
One can safely walk around town and visit the local market selling anything from a pair of nail clippers to kitchenware, hardware and foodstuffs. The area around the market is where many of the tailors, carpenters, and small local restaurants are situated. Quite noticeable in town is also how certain areas seemed to be designated for the hardware shops, others for hairdressers (salons and/or saloons) and general traders dotted around between them.
An additional market was recently opened for agricultural products - visit this for fresh fruit, vegetables and meat. This new market is very spacious and pleasant to visit even if one just wants to browse and see trading in action.
ACCOMMODATION AND PLACES TO EAT
Hotel Muhabura is located past the turnoff to Cyanika (the border with Uganda), on your right. This seems to be on the better known places and is also one of the places where Ruhengeri meets. The food is definitely some of the best in town featuring inter alia an excellent mushroom soup. A huge variety of meals are on offer and a daily 'Dish of the Day'. Be aware that some meals may not be available during a power cut and the restaurant is relying on the generator. Main course ranges from US$4-8. The hotel does also offer accommodation averaging US$30-40 per night.
Hotel Urumuli in town is another place to go for a meal and is located in the centre of town down from the local market. Meals are tasty and good value for money but be prepared to wait about an hour as your food doesn't come from a modern state of the art kitchen. The worthwhile wait will be rewarded with soups served in huge bowls and excellent meat dishes. A big favourite here for locals is the whole fish dish (Tilapia). The restaurant area is in a courtyard type area with some seating in under cover cubicles around the courtyard. The bar is also a meeting place for the pool playing crowd. Main course ranges from US$3-6.
The new tarssealed road past the ORTPN office in Kinigi will bring you to another two places of accommodation i.e. Mountain Gorilla's Nest and Kinigi Guest House.
Mountain Gorilla's Nest features a huge number of rooms and a 9-hole golf course for the adventurous golfer. Rates range from US$70 per person. Check with local operators for the latest rates as they do vary between high and low seasons.
Kinigi Guest House is a community project and although we have stayed here, we have met quite a few travellers who have stayed here and was very complimentary about the accommodation, food and the service.
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
This well known National Park is home to the Rwandan population of Mountain Gorillas and was also where Dian Fossey did her world famous research. One can participate in various activities here including;
Trekking one or more of the volcanoes
Tracking the Golden Monkeys
Tracking the Mountain Gorillas
Visiting Dian Fossey's grave at Karisoke
Nature walks
The rates and procedures are available on the website of ORTPN at www.rwandatourism.com
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